Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Kilimanjaro - Tanzania

After much work and struggles leading up to the trip, I left my new home in Pasadena on a great night to the Los Angeles airport. I hoped the carry my gear on the plane but it turned out to be much too large for security. I went back to check in my bag and quickly realize the first mistake of this trip by leaving both my wallet and my phone behind in the car, however lessons learned from previous adventures drove me to research to this trip prior and found the optimal currency in Tanzania was cash with sporadic ATMs and difficult exchange venues. With $600 extra cash in my pocket, I had no concerns about the situation. With the main focus of 2010 to be “life in the moment”, this in turn may be an added benefit to drive home that message. I saw a billboard on the way down to the airport which says it all… “no matter what… fight on!”. This is a big trip for me.


On the early morning red eye flight, I slept most of the way to Dulles Airport in Washington, DC and while waiting for the Ethiopian flight to board for my next destination to Rome, I bought a coffee, calling card, and a journal which I start the journaling of the trip. The flight next leg of the trip to Rome then onto Addis Abba is a mere 15 hours, but excited to know soon I will plant my feet onto a new continent. The flight is uneventful and I attempt to get some sleep but it proves difficult. With my extra gear packed below in the cargo hold, my entertainment is my new journal, a book on critical thinking, and the in-flight magazine. Good thing the Ethiopian Airlines 767 has a great in-flight entertainment system embedded into the passenger seat which I took full advantage of. We stopped in Rome in the middle of the night to take on more fuel and within an hour we were on our way to Addis Abba, Ethiopia. More of the same, I finished off the selection of movies except for a love story not calling my name. As we descended on to the city, I could quickly see the poverty and the homes of their common way of life. Maybe we just flew above that side of the city, but it reminded me of my time in Isla Mujeres off the coast of Mexico. Not knowing if I would be required to enter customs in Addis Abba, I completed the forms anyway only to find out otherwise. The layover for the next flight to Nairobi was a little over an hour requiring a change in planes so I toured the airport and found numerous shops holding the types of products I'm looking for my new business which I plan to start at the beginning of the year. Hoping to have time on the return flight to look closer and make a purchase, I easy went through security into a glass enclosure boarding area providing the feeling could be on display in a virtual habitat.


As I boarded the aircraft I realized it was the same plane after all but a new route number. Having so much time with the in-flight magazine it was clear they were proud of their fleet as every plane received a section detailing its tail number, gross weight, engines, and more. We took off the North which provided a glimpse the other side of the city. Not perfect but far from stories I heard as a child that Ethiopian was a country of severe poverty, but as with every country not every region is cinnamon and spice. As the plane turned left to the south I was able to glimpse the beautiful countryside including a distant view of Lake Victoria. The puffy clouds scattered through the sky offering glimpses of the mystical scenery. The flight was a bit over a hour and as we dropped into the city of Nairobi I felt to stir over the green landscape and wondered if I would spend time here in the future. The city holds the nickname “city of green” and I envision for a moment having a plot of land living the easy life.

As we approached the airport, my recent pilot’s lessons instinctively told me the pilot was either in training or having a difficult time making a smooth landing in the wind. The first lesson when landing on final is to be carefully not to make large corrections on the base or final unless flight critical. Not only were the engines spooled up of final telling me our attitude was low and needed yet compensation. This created another issue which was our landing speed. As we touched down well past the landing marks I know the pilot was greater than the pilot operating handle. The touch down speed was confirmed as we miss the taxiway and had to complete a U-turn on the MIC end of the active runway. Good thing the airport is small relative to others while. Most of the passengers were gathering their belongings once we arrived at the gate leaving only a handful going to Kilimanjaro Airport.


We were off in the next 40 minutes for the short flight to the Kilimanjaro airport. The countryside continued to grow more beautiful until I got my first glimpse of the mountain. On her lower half, she was cloaked in the clouds but provided a clear view of the summit and the three distinctive craters. I snapped a bunch of pictures from the left side of the first-class cabin until I was told to go back to my seat. With only one other in first-class and with my seat only two rows behind was surprised by the mandate from the only male flight attendant, however knew this would not be so if any of the beautiful Ethiopian flight attendants were not comfortable enjoying the quick flight as well. I got a chance to snap pictures of Mt Nero as well with the Moshi countryside painted with small homesteads. As we descended to the Kilimanjaro International Airport I could sense the wind was fierce with the dust bowls visible running across the flats. We touched down without an issue but had to complete yet another U-turn do to the mistake of the pilot, but because the airstrip was so small with out taxiways. Kilimanjaro or JRO is designated " Gateway of Africa's Wildlife Heritage", was inaugurated in 1971 became the first international airport to be privatized in Africa in 1998. Funny to be in a 767 at that time.


As I stepped off the airplane, I placed my feet firmly on African soil for the first time. The warm air was distinctive with Kilimanjaro still looming in the distant; I quickly cleared customs as most went others still had to obtain a entry visa which I was not aware as an option on site. The pains I went through to have it before the trip is another story, but It was good to be in front of everyone and found my backpack to be the first to travel through the corridor all the way since I checked it in Los Angeles a few days prior. I passed through a set of doors to find a group of drivers waiting with names on paper, but none with my name. The remaining taxi drivers quickly noticed I was without a ride and they surrounded me with offerings to take me wherever I wanted to go. I search my papers only to find I did not print the latest e-mail from Mary that included the hotel's name. I searched and searched with a half dozen drivers around me but to no avail in remembering the hotel. Attempting to obtain the hotel name by providing details of what I remember in the website, but there were obviously more than a few in Arusha. There were no clear choices so I made another pass by the drivers and this time there was a sign with my name on it for the Snow Crest Hotel. Yes that was it. My drivers name was Harrison and I could tell he was a sharp from the beginning and we enjoyed a Tanzanian conversation over the 40 km ride to the hotel. We spoke about Christianity, politics, family, and his love of driving for the hotel. Prior to joining the hotel, he drove for the Citi Bank branch of Arusha, but that was closed a few years ago. He felt fortunately having this job as they are hard to find in the country as he was putting his kids through a private school costly a tidy sum.


The countryside was familiar to my travels in Mexico and Jamaica with street side venues for everything from chickens, produce, lumber, and anything else one might need off the dusty roads. The ride was quickly over and as we pulled up to the hotel and as it was a cut above everything else in the area. As I walked in the front lobby, I was greeted by a team with a hot napkin, mango juice, and anything I needed to make my stay in abundance. Not use to such pampering I quickly went to my room and prepared for a well-deserved shower after 33 hours of traveling. I got some shut eye in the afternoon and explored the Snow crest Hotel has it already turned to night and nowhere to go. The hotel was magnificent more luxurious than those I stayed during my business trips. It included a bar and gym overlooking the pool with one end over 12 feet deep. The many courtyards decorated with lush flowers and tropical plants including skylights adding to the deep color. The rooms included everything from plasma TVs, a working area, countless storage closets, and a bathroom with all modern fixtures. I was truly impressed and considered it an oasis in the middle of Arusha. I slipped the night by enjoying my time working on my journal while watching a non-American football and rugby match thinking of were I was. It took some time to get to sleep as we were 10 hours ahead of Los Angeles and before going to sleep spent some more time on the Internet downloading info for my current year book. I updated my blog and checked Mary's website for details and other trips she provides. I just happened to find the section detailing the gear required for the Kilimanjaro trip and not seeing the link before had sent Mary an email weeks earlier. The email confirmed we needed only personal gear but now that I stare at the section tonight, it also including a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, and trekking poles. While trying to be light and carry on my backpack, I only brought what she stated. A bit concerned I sent her an e-mail that night but knew I needed to get to sleep and shrugged of the potential issue knowing something would be worked out. Still having trouble getting to sleep after a hour, I got back up and checked the computer in case she confirmed what I needed to have for the trip and she did once again confirm everything else would be provided by the Mumbi. How good it felt I would not have to spend my Saturday finding gear shop in Arusha which most likely was not available. I laid back down and fell soundly.


I woke up nearing 11 a.m. Tanzanian time that provided me the much needed rest. I took a hot shower and went downstairs for lunch. I enjoyed the hospitality of the staff learned the basic requirements of the Swahili language. I spent the afternoon near the pool until the bell man came and advised the team had arrived from Nairobi. I closed my journal and went to greet Mary Kariuki, her brother John, and the rest of the team I expected to be from New York. Mary gave me a hung as I found her having a warm sense about her supporting her pretty face. Her brother was younger than her by nine years and had been guiding in Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania for over 12 years. The team, not from New York, was comprised of nine total, three from Austria and the rest from Switzerland with only two being men. During introductions, I was confident I would not remember their names, but hoped they would of me since I was only one. I did catch Hans and Jennifer but that was it. Hans is a mountain guide in the Swiss Alps which I would come to appreciate his manner and humor. Mary confirmed we were all one and everyone went to their rooms after the dusty six-hour ride from Nairobi. I thought they were coming from Mt Meru in the Moshi Flats but they were urged by Mary to consider Mount Kenya to offer a better variety for the trip. If I would have known this earlier I might have also joined and eventually not gown on the Safari but that also would have been a tragedy being in Africa and not to see the Serengeti. The other point was I have a lot more climbing in Africa and if I completed the biggest peak at the same time, coming back in the near future might be at risk.


I went back to the pool to continue working on my journal then decided to go for a swim. I unzipped the leg bottoms from my hiking gear and jumped in. The pool felt fantastic and completed a dozen or so underwater laps on the bottom of the deep end. I was surprise by my dizziness when I jumped out of the pool but sat for a minute to gain my balance before heading back to the room for a hot shower. Not ready to pack it in for the afternoon, I decided to go for a long stroll on the road to Arusha. Surprised by the reaction of the gal in the front lobby as she seemed concern for my safety, but got another reaction from the bell man at the front door. He gave me a few words of wisdom in the native language, and I was off heading on the opposite side of traffic which similar to the UK, is reverse the United States. Not sure would is right or wrong in this case. On a positive note, my decision to head on the opposite side prevented countless taxi’s from wanting to know if I wanted a ride even though honked and jested if I did need them for were ever the only white guy any where in site wanted to go. I even had a few on motorbikes ask me the same thing, but of course that is a life virtual, never to ride on the back of a bike with another.


As noted before, the environment was similar to other travels such as Isla Meurars and Jamaica as I soaked in the activity of the day of the countryside where the community lives impoverished conditions but vibrant with a healthy live. The walk gave me sites to the countless open markets under make shift shacks as women cloaking their body in traditional garments with baskets balanced on their heads. What I was surprised to see with the influx of cell phone and nice cars such as Nissans and Toyotas. It was clear Tanzania was a nation of texters as billboards everywhere promoted the latest version of a phone with the monthly rate that I suppose dominated their income. Make shift cars washes dotted the road as it was important to shine and dust at odds. No sure how they got the water supplier to do this but they did the best they could to recycle what they had. I continued my walk until I reached the turnoff into downtown Arusha still many miles away. I decided to this was good enough and turn to head back to the hotel on the other side of the road. On the way back, the other thing I noticed was the number a boys cleaning old shoes attempting to bring them back to a like new condition with hopes to sell once again. The competition seems fierce with the number but shoes and cell phones were definitely the hot commodities on the street. I bought a couple of bananas front the front of a house and gave a dollar for what was only $.12. The girl looked at me funny but I thanked her and walked back up to the road.


Once back to the hotel I went to the bar to watch some “English” football while having but of course a Kilimanjaro beer, brewed locally in the region. A few others from the team saddled up to the bar and ordered a round of martinis prior to dinner when Mary stopped by as well. We spoke for quite some time until they advised dinner was ready in the hotel restaurant. Not knowing them yet and not invited I went back up to the room and prepared for the coming days climb. A bit before midnight and knowing I needed to get some sleep put everything away and slipped under the sheets. Again, I laid there for some time with the lights out but not able to sleep. Knowing it was only 2 pm in Los Angeles did not help, I watched a old movie and again turned off the lights but sat in the dark not able to get to sleep. Determined now I opened the window and jumped back under the covers. As I listened to the crickets and the night reminded me of teh trip to Jamaica staying at the Whitfield Hall. It also took me awhile to go to sleep that night but I listened to the exotic Jamaican night outside my open window. Oh how many people I have and will along the way and this journey. My trick worked in the next thing I knew it was 6:30 a.m. with the wake call ringing.


With breakfast at 8:30 am, I have a few hours to pack even though I prepared the night before. Not bringing a extra pack, I removed the belt from my pack and placed it through the top lid giving me a waist summit pack. It occurred to me now what the extra straps were for as there served as make shift shoulder straps with this configuration. When I got to breakfast, most of the team was already eating so I sat with a few of the girls and started my broken conversation that would last over the next week. I knew they had questioned my joining of the team but hoped I would quickly gain their acceptance. After I finished my breakfast, I grabbed another coffee and sat with Mary to talk about trip. Still happy I had all the necessary gear as the Mumbi providing the rest including the tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc., I confirmed this again to her I was worried a few nights a ago until she confirmed again. Puzzled, she looked back and said “you did not bring a sleeping bag or pad?” I said no and thought she confirmed but as always, things always things work themselves out because she had to go last-minute back to Nairobi to meet up with another teams gear which was shipped earlier and now in Nairobi waiting to be picked up. Not wanting this to be a issue, she was not leading our climb, but her brother John. This was good for me because now I had all the gear I needed and packed it after breakfast before the porters loaded it on the top if the bus taking us to the gates of Kilimanjaro. As we walked out to the bus, the entire team of guides and porters provided an outstanding send off in their native songs of Swahili. What a great start from the young Tanzanian men. Once on the bus, 40 km ride went by quickly as are only stop was a break a local roadside market before the turn off to Machame.


The road to the valley was paved and demonstrated the volume of climbers that come to Kilimanjaro during peak season. We continued into the village of Machame which appeared cleaner than the main towns off the main highway with more vegetation with many churches along the way. As we continued up the lower slopes of the mountain, we arrived at the gate of Mount Kilimanjaro National Park.

A few miles after the town we reached the gate of Kilimanjaro and the Machame route which was a lot busier than expected. My guess was that it was approximately 150 climbers waiting to sign or waiting for the porters to get the gear packed. It took our team of 10 over 30 minutes to get through the line for registration and other 40 minutes for the porters to get everything ready. The guide brought our lunches for the day which included BBQ chicken breasts and much more. Not bad but I was not hungry at the time it seemed like only a few hours ago I had a large breakfast. I packed it in my pack and waited watching the busiest of the teams preparing for the climb.


Our time came before leaving the Machame Gate at an elevation of 6000ft we had yet another team song to wish for a successful journey. We had approximately 40 porters carrying all the gear for the team not including the guides who numbered at least five. The pace was extremely slow compared to my normal style but of course stayed with the team the entire way. Quickly the porters passed us with massive loads on their heads and back at a pace three times ours. (add porter history).

The trail to the first camp is a 11 miles (18 km) walk through the Montane Forest rain forest winding up a ridge. Lower down it was usually muddy but with little rain in the previous weeks we had clear path with little need for gaiters and trekking poles. The time flew quickly through the landscape similar to the Pacific Northwest and I reminded myself I was south of the equator. I tracked the progress on my Garmin Treo GPS and it was what seemed like only a few hours we were close to our first camp of the expedition, Machame camp at an elevation of 9900 feet. The upper trail became extremely dusty the final portion before passing our camp to the right to head to the small ranger station signing in of our arrival. The bureaucracy of Kilimanjaro climb was a well oiled machine I would come to find out.


Once back at camp I found everything in order including hot water to rinse before dinner. Our dining tent was a yellow octagon group tent with enough room for table large enough to sit ten places. Our guide John, the only other that joined us during dinner sat on the oil bucket during dinner and we were served family style in a nice restaurant. For dinner we had soup, bread, fish, and fresh fruit more than enough for the team. The food was plentiful and fantastic and we enjoyed the company and shared stories of travel and entertainment by Hans who brought his guitar as he was gifted in play and song. He had a book with songs and the best was when he played “Women Don't Cry” by Bob Marley and the entire team of porter outside in the dark of the night jumped in the singing. Wow! What a moment and talk about full circle with other trips where I learned of Bob’s life. Everything is connected by spirit. Wanting to leave on a good note, I retired to my tent that I shared with Martin of Switzerland. It took me a bit to get fall asleep but eventually I fell into a light sleep only to awake many times through the night. Don’t know if it was the time change or something else, but I have had better nights sleep in the wilderness.


I woke in the morning to the clanging of cook pans and knew even in the darkness of the tent, morning was near as the porters were preparing morning tea and hot water. I stayed in the comforts of my sleeping bag for some time until I sat up and started organizing my gear for the day. I thought how this morning would repeat itself over next week and realized on this first day I may have jumped the gun as the porters brought Kilimanjaro tea to while comfortably inside your sleeping bags. They also brought hot water to wash up but with the alcohol wipes I got off the 767 on the way to Africa, I had already taken my bath. Not a big deal as the hot water on my face and face was doubly refreshing in the midst of the morning. We made our way to mess tent to again be astonished by the morning breakfast served by a designated cook, trained in the fine art of cuisine cooking. There was not question he prepared a healthy and tasty breakfast which included porridge, eggs, fruit, bread, and a mix of tomatoes and cucumbers. Different from what I was used to all previous trips, but I wasn't complaining. I went back to finalize my gear and being my first trip with porter support, I was amazed at their efficiency as the camp was completed disassembled and packed in less than 10 minutes.


We set off slowly from Machame Camp and the glades of the rain forest with the goal to maintain of pace set by John to begin the acclimatizing process insuring everyone spent the day with their lungs full of oxygen without effort up to Shira Camp at 12,600 feet 5.5 miles away. We continued our way up and out of the rain forest and I got my first glimpse of Kilimanjaro from the route. The vegetation quickly change and we continued above the clouds below covering the Moshi landscape. I saw my pack pass me by a young Tanzania porter named Alex, always with a wide smile and wanting to shakes hands. As I watched my gear make it up the mountain without me, I knew this would be a great week. The only concern I had at the moment was my camera. Prior to the trip, I had a option to either my a new camera that took normal batteries or buy a solar charger for the camera I had which had it’s own battery charged by standard outlet. In the end, I did not have time for either and rationed my battery use like water in the desert since the last thing I wanted to do was to be without a camera on summit day. I was selective about taking pictures and usually did this when the porters were passing with the heavy loads balanced on the top of their heads. Always a bit in front of our guide with the rest of the team behind, the pace easily allowed me to maintain a deep breath without any perspiration. I knew without any deep conditioning for the Kilimanjaro trip, the many years of mountaineering conditioning, both physically and mentally, prepared me for the coming week.

We came to a point where the trail snaked up the ridge and exposed the porters ahead in the white bags on top of their heads taking the appearance of small rice grains magically moving up in the mountain. Quite a site as this was Africa all the way up to the summit of Kilimanjaro. We continued on an ascending path and crossed the small valley before gaining a steep rocky ridge to a plateau covered with lush heather. The views really began to take shape as the Valley grew farther apart and the mountain was changing before my eyes. At the top of the ridge I saw the porters going up and out team had already set up the mess tent with lunch ready. After lunch we had only an hour to go Shira Camp where we would have a greater part of the afternoon to rest and enjoy the views from the ridge. The trail turned to the west directly under the ridge line until we crested it and dropped down a few hundred feet to camp. Our break at the ridge was taken in the warm sun with dark clouds looming. Only minutes after leaving the crest, the rain came and I put all my rain gear tucked away in my small pack. Interesting enough, I had asked our guide if on perfect days like we leave from camp below, does the weather usually hold out the entire day and he confirmed most of the time. Not today as the rain became a down pour and we made camp soaked but course our tents were ready with the rest of our gear comfortable inside. I was fortunate my porter place my gear on the opposite side of the rain so I put myself in my sleeping bag and enjoy the afternoon writing in my journal and a nap with the sweet sounds all around and a view of the valley below. What a fresh breath in the high landscape as the moist air was both crisp and sweet.


I was awakened by a partner at 4pm that it was time for tea as the team scurried to the mess tent trying not to get hit by the now ice pellets still falling from the dark sky. The tea was served in its usual manner and perfect for the moment with the same sounds in the large tent. We hung out for a while but I decided to head back to the tent to continue writing in my journal. I heard though the rain Han’s guitar as the rest of the team stayed in the tent until dinner, but I thoroughly enjoyed the moment of songs from were I was at. I continued catching up on my journal until it was time for dinner as the rain let up a bit for me to duck inside, but slowly increased while I enjoy a cup of coffee. Dinner was served starting with a cucumber based soup followed by a oriental pineapple curry with rice. I enjoyed my portion but left it at that. The food served was so good and plentiful I was already having concerns of losing weight on this trip. Coupled with the pace we were going, it would be hard for me to believe I would come back heavier after climbing a mountain such as Kilimanjaro but this just might be a new first for me if I wasn’t careful eating to much. I hung out in the mess tent sipping my after dinner tea enjoying the company with the language of choice to be German. The guitar came out and was the moment of the night so far.


I left the tent about 8:30 pm and was blown away by the stars. Not only were there a billion of them, the Milky Way was as clear and visible as I had ever seen. Gazing up toward the sky, I could feel clearly visualize where we sat in a galaxy. Wow! I said a prayer and thanked God for this moment and for the past, present, and future journeys. LIFE IS TRULY GOOD!


I escaped the bed which I prepared before for dinner and sunk into my borrowed down sleeping bag. With clean jeans, fresh t-shirt, and own down botties, I was feeling remarkably well and in great spirits. I wrote in my journal for a bit longer under the light of my headlamp until I knew it was time to go to bed. I had already taken in a Excedrin to help with a good nights rest and listen to the iPod to take me to a restful night. With Pink Floyd, Sting, and the soft thunderstorm background I was sure I would be asleep very soon. The nightlife was still very alive throughout the camp and I laid there enjoying the surroundings. I knew the Kilimanjaro climb was a big trip for me and sensed even before leaving I would walk away with a important lesson in my life. First, I knew I needed to be absorbed in the world around me and to not expect it to fit into my personal expectations. Second, I am here in the moment until it's time to move and until then, I am here. Third, I must know who I am and live that way. I do not need to drive high energy all the time but need to drive my desires in a quieter leadership role. The sign I saw all of the way to the Los Angeles airport said that “No matter what... fight on!” This is close but needs a slight tweak to support what I want, where I am going, and who I am. The better term is “No matter what... press on!” There should be constant pressure to the goals that drive my life including my project, my career, and my business. This is the key from the moving forward!


Listening to the guitar, I love the concept of the entertainment gift high in the mountains which in Europe, is still maintain whether in cottages or mountains similar to my night on Grossglockner which come to find out later in the trip, Han’s has climbed over 100+ times. I purchased a harmonica a few years ago but have yet to pick up any tunes. I challenge myself to continue to original plan as this is the perfect instrument for me as it is cool, small, and insures I will not sing along. Also, I've reflect to my desire for a tattoo marking what I want my life driven too. I believe tattoos are good if you keep them out of site from a professionalism standpoint and support your core life plan and beliefs to what you were put here on this earth to do. For many it is undecided, but for me I know. I ponder on what would make such a statement and I conclude having a vintage world map fanning off my shoulder. It wouldn't be a light gray providing a slight contrast to my skin. It's great to have a plan and a cool tattoo when I ride my 72’ Harley Chopper to the local bar or around Sturgis next year.

Sleep was better this night at Shira Camp but still on and off through the night as I felt rested as the birds started their percussion 10 minutes before the porter got up in the adjacent camp. Still dark I grabbed my headlamp, jacket, and journal and grab found a large rock to watch the morning sun rise over Kilimanjaro. Comfortable and warm, I write in my journal while the teams arose around me with our team the last of this morning. Used to the drill, we packed our gear prior to breakfast as the porters served tea, but this morning I noticed the coffee as well on a silver platter.


After breakfast the team started east up the trail passing the junction towards the peak of Kibo then changed direction to the South East towards the Lava Tower, called the "Shark's Tooth." at 15,000 feet. We took a moment a scrambled up the face with impressive views below. We now continued down to the Barranco Hut only 100 feet from where we would start the day. The distance would be a bit over 9 miles and the trail was better than the previous day as the rain suppressed the dust back into the trail. We made our way up the ridge with the other teams as the views become entangled with the clouds cloaking the upper slopes of the mountain. As I continued, I felt the pace was way to slow for my body and even though I put myself in front to drive forward then stops to enjoy the surrounding area, I sensed I needed something different. I guess I have not made to sit in a pack at a slow pace especially when there is no danger. Sometimes the body simply wants to put the head down and drive forward. I confirmed with John I would continue to the point we would have lunch prior to Lava Rock. One of the Tanzanian guides offered to go with me as he also was feeling the pace. We took off and in no time were at the lunch break spot and grabbed a chair from the tent and position myself comfortably behind a large rock out of the wind and waited for the team to arrive.


Once the team arrived we had lunch and promptly were back on the trail in misty conditions and if snow was present it would have been a white out. The landscape took a different shape and was sort of like being on the moon. At this point knowing Lava Rock wasn’t a long way from where we had lunch I stayed next to the team in front of the guide. Once we reached the crest where the trail separated to either our camp or the harder section to the summit as Lava Rock loomed in the mist. There was a discussion as to climb the rock and the team concluded it was a good even though many were showing signs of fatigue. Lava Rock was slowly making her way out of the mist as the sky cleared showing her vertical face. We walked around the backside and climbed up with three sections definitely not a simple walk up. It's to a few friction holds but the climb energize the team as the view opened only a minute after being on the top to demonstrate how high we were. We were only up at the top for a minute or so and we started our way down to the base of the rock.


Once down we continued to drop back to our next camp at an altitude of 12,700 feet. The landscape moved back from the luna views of rocks and dirt to a greener landscapes including tropical trees, lush plants, and a small cascading river to our left with water falls in a few places. This sky remained cloudy with teasing views but by 5 p.m. we were at Camp. The entire team of porters greeted us with a 10 minute chant and warm water to wash up from the day of hiking. I took full advantage of one of our final nights and after cleaning very well put on jeans, cotton shirt, and fresh socks. They brought around tea prior to dinner and I reflected the next night we would be leaving at midnight from camp for our bid for the summit. The cotton on my skin felt great and I enjoyed dinner of a pasta chili and mango dessert. Usually I would stay for the entertainment but I wanted to see if my body was ready for a great night sleep. I could also sense that after spending multiple days as the foreigner I was feeling a bit lonely tonight. The conversation was always in either German or Tanzanian and even though I enjoy the comforts of my friends I could feel the solitude. No concern but anyone would feel the same even though everyone was incredibly nice. Tomorrow is the big day as this will be when we make our money during our Kilimanjaro climb. The plan was to leave at 7:30 am to get to camp at 3 pm in order to have plenty of time for early dinner and some sleep prior to the midnight climb. The summit night will be 7 kilometers up to 19,300 feet and back all the way down to our final camp 23 kilometers away. Long stretch of hiking as getting sleep anytime before midnight is not an easy task. Legs are great; no breathing issues, and need to continue to drink lots of water. Slight headache so I took another Excedrin. Hope to sleep well! Goodnight.


For the first time since leaving Los Angeles last week, I slept soundly all the way through the night. The Barranco Camp was amazing as to all sides offering spectacular views. To the north was Kilimanjaro, to the west was the breakfast wall which we're about to collide, and to the south the open sky as the clouds covered the countryside far below. The hike into camp yesterday gave the impression this camp with greenery all around it. The routine was in place with Kilimanjaro tea brought around by the kitchen crew, hot water followed to prepare for breakfast, and a main course of breakfast itself always including porridge, eggs, fruit, and some veggies.


We broke camp early for the 8 miles hike in order to get to Barafu Camp early enough for dinner and some sleep before the big night. We left camp to the west directly up a steep ridge up the Barranco Wall or also known as the breakfast wall because some say many lose their morning food due to a quick start up such a large wall in the morning. The trail started out as a class II climb and continue to provide better views of the camps, clouds, and the valley became from last afternoon. Heading up the ridge was straight forward but in many places where it hugged the facing rocks, it was tricky allowing the hundreds of porters to pass who broke camp after us
and keep our gear perfectly balanced on their heads. They continued to pass on the narrow rock as the valley below grew farther and farther away. It took about an hour to us in the top which in a instant became one of my top spots I've been in the world. The Plateau overlooked Kilimanjaro in all its glory, the landscape through the South which was barren as a ragged desert full of exotic trees, shrubs and cliff walls. I was in love with the area and spent a while taking in that moment.


Once the break was over we descended into the Karanga Valley and across the alpine desert providing a continuing fantastic view of Kilimanjaro. Everywhere was varieties of plants as I walked ahead of the team to provide my own climbing experience. I enjoy the company but the ability to stop, watch, listen, or take pictures which was needed. As the trail climbed out of the valley to another small plateau, I got my first glimpse of our lunch stop at 13, 779 feet and the junction which connects with the Mweka Trail but before getting there, the trail dropped yet again into another deep valley to the last water source before final camp. We ascended the trail and we enjoyed lunch in the windy afternoon as other team were battling with there tents, we sat sipping tea through the flapping door exposing the south face of Kilimanjaro.

After lunch, we continued in a northeast direction to Barafu Hut at 15,100ft as this completes the South Circuit offering a constant view of the summit from many different angles. I took many pictures and enjoyed the three hour trip in my own world. Porters, porters, everywhere. As we approached the south flank of the mountain, the trail to turned east and I was in sight of high camp. We arrived in camp around 3:30 p.m. and immediately had tea and dinner in order to get to bed early for the midnight start on Kilimanjaro. The two peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo are in perfect view from this position and as the night starts to fall, the sun reflects off the prehistoric rock in a burning red color. Brilliant! During dinner I got a quick headache and became a bit concern about my ability of going over 19,000 feet in the morning like it is a walk in the park. I took the last of my Excedrin and the pressure quickly went away but still concerned of the morning, I got more aspirin from John and went to bed.


Surprisingly I got plenty of sleep in the four hours when they knocked on the tent at 11 am. No headache and I felt great and ready to go. The cook staff prepared porridge and tea which was perfect prior to the beginning of a great day. As we started up the trail for the 4.5 mile and 6-8 hour ascent, there only appeared to be only a few teams ahead of us but soon after a few others escaped from the dark. In 15 minutes of leaving camp, all other teams appeared below us with over a hundred headlamps glowing in the night. The start went well and I took to the back of the team deciding to climb well today, not concerned with speed as we worked as a team. The pace was slow and I knew my body would do well and enjoyed my experience to the top, not just making it by the sheer grit of my physical energy. As with all midnight climbs, time disappears and before you know it, the sun is rising and you're well on your way to the top. The stars were brilliant and I really enjoyed the presence of the moment as on this very early morning, I knew we were on our way to the summit somewhere between the Rebmann and Ratzel glaciers.


We continued on the stone scree path and I turned off my GPS preventing from a look at the elevation which I did not want to know so my body could feel the night with compromising my mental thoughts of how close, far, low, or high I was. It is kind of like taping a football game only to hear the score on the way home. It's at some point in the night I started feeling the effects of the altitude as a dizzy sensation making it difficult to control the moment. I became alarmed in my ability to handle the altitude at this pace and if my body was built for it. When I climbed Pico de Orizaba, even without acclimation I was able to achieve the summit but with shear will which I had plenty on the first climb of my life project. The more I began to think about it, many of the bigger climbs, the summits have been reached by sheer will and not by physical pursuit and enjoyment at the top. What am I taking about! This is mountaineering and comfortable is not a virtue.


We continue in a northwesterly direction and ascend through heavy scree towards Stella Point on the crater rim which is told to be the most mentally and physically challenging portion of the trek. I struggled a bit and moved to the front of the line behind the guide to bring focus. As I follow his steps, I know this is the moment of the entire trip and wanted to tell me something. As I noted before, this trip was huge for me and I sensed before leaving there was a life lesson was awaiting me to drive into the second half of my time on earth. I mentally step back and drove my earlier life thoughts of what I needed, to press on no matter what, live in the present, and to drive what I want. I took this approach and immediately felt the renewal in my energy. No doubt. Just feeling the moment and driving on. This held for a bit but I slipped back and forth over the next 30 minutes. I looked up at the moment and saw a shooting star racing across and sky and knew that galvanized the lesson I was here to learn. I soaked in the moment of where I was and where my life is heading and felt the pride of being on the right trail.


I knew we had to be getting close to the crater rim but that in “mountain time” can be over an hour or more. Soon after, the Eastern sky gave a faint hint of the coming morning. There is such a burst of energy you receive when climbing in the night as the sunrise returns from the other side of the planet as the glow in the horizon warms everything. My sense was confirmed and within 15 minutes as the tops of the clouds changed colors so slightly with sunrise at 6:30 am making it close to 6 hours on the mountain. As we approached Stella Point at an altitude of 18,652 feet, we stopped for a short rest waiting for the rest of the team. I was rewarded with one of the most magnificent views I’ve ever see as from Stella Point, the morning sun detailed the crater across to the summit, still 1-hour ascent away to Uhuru Peak and the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro and the continent of Africa. Ready to reach the true summit, John, I, and another team member started the final push to the summit still 650 feet above were we presently were.


As I closed on to the summit, tears started rolling down my cheek as I felt the emotional side of what I just accomplished as to what this trip meant to me. The many first but most of all the first of the seven summits and the fact life has allowed me to be at this point. It was a prideful moment as I reach the plateau crowded by many of the other teams looking for the glory shot. It was one of those first on the summit and spent a fair amount of time taking pictures including the one with monkey and thinking of what I had overcome to be standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Once the rest of the team arrived we took a group shot and I started to head down. There were still many on their way up well past exhaustion as I started back down to Sella Point.


The trip down was much quicker than the way up and I paid the price closely following the guide as he kicked up a large volume of dust. It got into my eyes, mouth, clothes, and anything else with an opening. The six hours up took less than hour and a half down beating in the record ratio I may have previously had. The time flew by and I never thought how long it took as I again was the first to reach camp. I paid the price with a sore throat, cloudy eyes, and general sick feeling. I took in an hour nap before lunch and the trip to our final camp and night on the mountain. I was able to grab a few minutes rest but woke up to a growing headache. Luckily my tent partners saved the day with more pills to keep it at bay. A bit before 11 am I started packing my gear had had lunch for the final time high on the mountain. I kept my contact out on the way down to give me eyes a rest. Before heading down, I regretted packing so light and wanted a fresh feeling on the hike to Mweka Hut in the upper forest at 10,200 feet and a 14.3 miles descent. With rain expected in the late afternoon, I also thought about wearing my jeans or white cargo shorts but decided otherwise and put back on the same clothes I worn to the summit.


I kept out my iPod which was very attractive to all the porters thinking it would be needed to get down quickly over the next 14 miles but I got into many conversations with both Hans, Jenny, and the guides. In no time we reach the high camp with beer to purchase. Yippee! The place looked like a train wreck with old buildings and rickety boards for places to sit. The porters also looked beat down but we stopped and enjoyed the beer in the sand. The rest of the way to Mweka Camp was rocky and a bit less dusty. I continued my conversations the rest of the way down talking of places I want to live, places I want to visit, and life in general. As before, we reached Mweka Hut in no time and the porters were ready with a final chant assembly that brought climbers from adjacent camps.


I set up my bed in the tent and went to the mess tent for tea and dinner knowing tonight would the final dinner and a short night for me. I brought my journal to the table and tried to catch up on my days on the trek but good conversation again took over which I always prefer. Dinner was great and plentiful as usual and we finished, I said my goodnight and I headed to bed. It had been a long day waiting up at 11 am and I needed some rest. Wasn't terribly tired but knew sleep was needed to keep the crisp awareness I was looking for in life. I played a quick game of suduko on the small computer and jotted a few pages in the journal. As a joke in the tent, my partner joked I could pump up his mattress which proved difficult on the high mountain only to find there was a trick, but I wanted to return the favor for the medicine which if without, would still have a headache. I turn off my headlamp to get some sleep while listening to my iPod. The team continued singing to the guitar and German songs I did not know.
Rest came to me quickly and the next thing I knew I heard the porters making the familiar noises of the morning I came to expect. I spent a bit of time consolidating and separating the gear I prepare to get give to the porters. I knew I would give everything except my pack as I needed it to get my gear and other possessions home. I placed the gifts in the top pack which I wore the entire trip on the mountain. After breakfast and before heading down to the gate our porters gave us a final song that would impress any recording studio. The songs were perfect and continued for some time. We all shook hands and made our way down the trail for a final leg of his successful trip.


We continued the descent a bit over 9 miles to the Mweka Park Gate at an elevation of 6000 feet. The timing was to be less than three hours and my trip were mostly spent with Jennifer who I had little time to talk to you on the trip. We also spoke about where we love to live, our work life, world travel, and what we were to do in our normal life. Through good, bad, and muddy trails we were at the gate in a short period of time and the legality of the trip was required with our passport as we signed the final roster. The hike to the Mweka Village was 15 minutes away and it was then the commercial side of the Tanzanian culture took over from the greenery of the roads with merchants and souvenirs of all sorts. They were aggressive but we held the cards as they wanted to sell us stuff not the other way. A simple no and firm walk usually worked as nothing was sold on the trail. We came to the Mweka Village which was lined with small victory bars in the Tanzania fashion and we picked out one to have a drink including buying the entire team of guides and porters a round. This is where the pressure came out with quite enjoyable. We sat in our hooded protection from every Tanzanian whom had something to sell and the team came in one by one to get two beers. Good news is the dusty camp above charged $4 a beer and when presented with the idea to by everyone just one, I quickly agreed to participate in the gesture but know it would be costly. The beers at the bar were only a $1.25 making the deal easier to offer two instead of one and my share was $10 which I was all more than happy to do. Once the team was through, the defenses of the guides lifted and merchants found their way in and the dealing began.


The interest being part of any deal is if you wait with a little patience, you can always find a better deal. Not only that but the belief all things are made locally and crafted by an old lady in hut around the corner sold by merchants high in the mountains. I found this out in Mexico sometime ago and learned it again on the foothills Kilimanjaro. Case in point was the wooded picture of Mazi women preparing a fire with Kilimanjaro in the background. One in particular was intriguing to me and I was told they were asking $40 for the crafted image on cotton. Not even thinking of paying that as one of the gals from the Austria had just done, I found the one I liking and held up a $20 which he quickly accepted. Stepping forward sometime later in the afternoon a team member would buy the same pictures in Moshi for three for $10 which she persisted so I would not forget. I still have not more to the thought it was handcrafted which it still does.


I knew we were ready to go and I had yet to gift my gear. Feeling a bit of a beer I was surrounded by both the merchants and porters as I made my way to the bus. Hoping my pack made it on board, I sat down still being pressed by the merchants through the bus window. Quite the moment of fury and a bit disappointed I was not able to stay longer and control the situation. It points out an area of improvement during times of conflict whether at work or the hills of Kilimanjaro, I need to maintain a quiet focus understanding what other are looking for and respond in a direct focused way. This also leads to my focus of communication at work. I can learn anything anywhere! The bus pulled away and just like that, the Kilimanjaro trip was over and the only thing that remained was a memory.


I must reply this to date is the best trip that I've ever taken on so many levels and so many first. It was the first time that I've ever traveled south of the equator, it's the highest I've ever been to day, it's the furthest west that I've been in the world, is the first time that I ever used porters for a expedition, it’s the longest on any one mountain, and the first of my seven summits. I know this project will continue to take a life it’s own and continued to grow legs through more adventures. I want to keep it simple, live in the moment, and enjoy the people around me. I can feel I'm learning and sensing what I need to do to continue moving forward as I need to learn new languages, understand new cultures, and educate myself with history prior the trip. I sense my desire to live a crisp life without other factors. I have to say I'm extremely satisfied to be going home for the first time to Los Angeles which is also a big change for me. I think of the additional 2009 virtue of life balance with a trip like this coming trip back to a challenging career creates a contrast of excitement.


Kilimanjaro is a huge mountain and a huge commitment which to be on the top by means other than sheer grit with partnership of others from opposite sides of the world. That leads me to another life focus of ensuring my quest is shared with others as well. To this day there is no question this adventure is most memorable, most mentally clear, most planned, and most enjoyed with others. I look back at climbing on so many mountains and the time I spent on Kilimanjaro with world citizens across many languages sharing a moment of our lives. I shared it with Tanzanians, I shared it with Kenyan’s, I shared it Switzerland's, and I shared it with Austrians. This is what ProjectEarth360 is all about, sharing cultures, lives, and experiences. Life is great. Off to Gnoro Gnoro and dancing with the Maki Tribe....