Thursday, November 5, 2009
Dufourspitze - Switzerland
I woke up around 5am, made a quick get-away like a bandit in the night and headed back west on Highway 19 toward Oberalp Pass. It didn’t take long for my body to drift back into drowsiness as I sat in my filth from the previous day of hard climbing. Needing an awakening, I found the perfect spot at the first high pass I came to. Flowing under the road, a raging icy creek provide a passage to it’s treasure and as we organized the car and made fresh coffee, I washed my clothes using a netting bag and the power of the current. After rinsing off I put on the only pair of jeans and clean t-shirt I brought and as I drove off, I felt renewed with a lovely cup of coffee sitting next to me. We continued through the mountains on the windy roads which eventually lead us to the jumping off point to climb Dufourspitze.
As we entered the town of Tasch we decided to grab breakfast at a small café so we parked the car and discovered a potential establishment off a back alley. We ordered breakfast which included the usual plate of cold cuts, cheese, and bread that we devoured quickly. Putting ourselves on a tight budget on this portion of the trip in order to leave more once the gals arrived, we expected to pay just a few bucks for breakfast and when the waitress came back out and ask if we wanted more, we shrugged and said “what the heck” knowing we would need the energy for the day. She brought out another plate of cold cuts, cheese, and bread and we barely finished that off. She brought the bill and to my surprise each plate of food was $19 US for a total of over $44 including coffee which did not set us the a great mood since the supplies and alcohol we had been eating the past few days cost us that, but no big deal as we are in Switzerland but any hopes of our moods was about to quickly change and we started to feel this country was not on our side on this day.
I grabbed a hundred Swiss Francs for hut spending and we jumped in the car planning to head over to the train station to inquire about tickets but in a conversation in Germany, one of the gals whom lived in Zermatt only a few miles up the road stated it was the jumping off point to climb Dufourspitze. Think the train of course stops there; we drove the small road into the town and as we approached the gate we were stopped by some border police and asked what we were doing. We stated our intentions and he quickly told us that it was against the law to drive in this town if you were not a resident or had authorization. He showed us a snapshot of a picture that included the words “Only authorized personnel only” which of course was in German with a very small caption at the bottom barely readable in English restating the warning. We apologized but that wasn't enough for this guy and he promptly wrote us a ticket and demanded a hundred Swiss francs as the penalty for not reading the small inscription and driving into town. I sat there and stared back and he quickly said either pay it or get the car impounded. Our time in Switzerland was quickly turning for the worse and the new hundred Swiss francs I just got from the bank was gone. With breakfast costing 44 Swiss franc and now this, our moods became extremely quiet.
As we drove back into Tasch there was nothing else we could do but shrug off our problem and set our sights toward the mountain we came to climb. I would be fooling myself if I thought this would be the last life lesson I will encounter on these trips and as I travel the globe. Switzerland is very modern and I can only imagine what this could be like as we travel to countries like Sudan where the regulations could be even more severe. As a write this blog just a few days ago there was a group of hikers that stepped over to the Iranian border and are now captives and I think of the planning I must do to ensure I understand the culture and the rules. Life lessons are just that and only turn into ingnorance if you repeat them…
We made our way into the train station to buy tickets for yet another luxury we were unfamilar with in America as getting to the starting point of the climb is half the climb. The train continued through a series of stops as ascended into the mountains to our final destination was Rotenboden, the second to last. As we stepped off the train with numerous tourists and a handful of climbers also making the trek to Santa Rosa Hut nearly two hours away with a slight drop in elevation according to the train’s embedded table map. Not in a rush to get to the hut, we enjoyed our hike on a trail which traversed 300 feet above the Gorner Glacier and provided a perfect view of the lower mountains as much of the top was hidden in the clouds. As noted prior, most climbs I am accustom to prevent you from every seeing the final destination but a simple train ride in the Alps puts you far into the mountains most would ever reach otherwise. We continued on the straight path as it continually descended to the glacier below and from there, across the glacier leading back up to the Monte Rosa Hut. As we approach the hut I sensed the accommodations were similar to Grossglockner in Austria.
We walked as veterans into the hut and promptly went to the main desk and booked reservations for the night which luckily only few were still available. We enjoyed the rest of the day by hanging outside on the rocks with the world-famous Matterhorn peaking through the clouds. It didn't take long for us to get used to the Alps accommodations as we decided this night to have our first hot meal of the trip and I went back into the main desk and let them know we would be having dinner with the other 100 plus climbers. As we waiting for dinner, the culture of climbing in the Alps yet again impressed me as it is a lifestyle and the modern conveniences encourages more than a select few. The four course dinner was amazing which included soup, salad, a main entrée of rice and some sort of chicken curry, and finally desert. After dinner, we stepped back outside and watched the sun set in the horizon then went into the sleeping quarters and prepared for a few hours of sleep and as I lay next to the open window, the glow of the day was still surrounding the sky as the Matterhorn dominating the landscape. Life is amazing and we're about to climb our fourth peak of the trip.
We woke up around 1:45 a.m. and like other trips prepared breakfast with coffee, oatmeal, and fruit. As the others scheduled breakfast in the hut, we still felt in heaven being able to cook on a table inside while we prepared our gear. We were the last to leave the hut around 2:45 a.m. and as we stepped out in the midnight darkness, the stars were out in full force providing a faint hint of the summit to the south. The initial climb passing through large boulders on dry ground as it passed the framed structure of the future Monte Rosa Hut. We continued to head up with the headlamps of other climbing parties mainly to the right of our heading as there are numerous routes to gain the glacier above. With our shortcut, we passed other groups and quickly found ourselves in the middle of the pack when we stepped onto the glacier to rope up and step into our crampons.
A few times in my career of mountaineering I’ve felt the void of an open crevasse but on this climb, I quickly found two of these deadly monsters through the unusual soft snow in the middle of the warm night. After roping up, I wanted to stay in front of a large party right behind us and as I took my first step onto the route, my foot passed through the snow into a void and I lunged forward to prevent slipping into the crevasse. I pulled myself up as we move forward it was no more than five minutes later as I was stepping across visible crevasse, the edge gave way yet again and I dove forward to self belayed on the edge. As I peered down I could see the darkness of the abyss with the intense snow illuminating my view and I looked back to see my climbing partner in a self-arrested position. I pulled myself up and carefully stepped forward to a solid landing. The remaining climb was straightforward with few crevasses near the boot path, but as the biggest danger on this climb was at the beginning, this shows you never know when protection is required, but come to find out later in the day we don't always learn from our mistakes.
Being the forth climb in a row, my body was prepared for endurance above my usual fitness level and this made the climb more enjoyable. As we moved through the night, the time pass quickly and before I knew it the sun was slowly rising above the eastern horizon and I stopped to capture a few pictures of the Matterhorn to my rear glowing in the morning sun. As were approached a plateau directly under the summit pyramid, there was two ways to achieve the summit as evident from the few parties ahead of us; one from the east and one from the west. We decided to take the west ridge suggested by summitpost.com as the other climbers veering to the left heading to the opposite side of the mountain. I continued up the steep face leading to the saddle where we took a quick break with a few other teams. From this point on, the route stayed on a narrow ridge wit direct access to the summit but from this point on, the exposure become extreme to with a mixture of rock, ice, and belayed climbing and I knew my mountaineering experience would soon be tested.
The steep ridge with exposure of well over 1500 feet to the glacier below switched from ice to a mixture of rock and ice requiring delicate steps with our crampons. Without fixed points on this section of the route, we used the rocks of the ridge as a self belay in case one of us fell. As we moved up the ridge the climbing got tougher, the exposure deeper, and any worries or thoughts other than the task at hand were throw off and I was testing my skills as a mountaineer but like any challenges, when you put yourself out there it's simply one step at a time ensuring that you have three points secure. At one moment, the summit appear directly ahead with climbers hanging out on top and nothing visible in the background, but as we approached this point as I found on Grossglockner, the route continued down to a small saddle and then back up into 5th class of rock and ice climbing. Our concentration increased and we continued to a section with fixed ropes due the difficulty of the pitch and intense exposure. With my ice axe and one trekking poles in hand (one was lost as it slid off the ridge back to the glacier) I clipped into the rope and ascended by using a prusik for security.
As we approached the summit, I realize what it's like climbing throughout the world with international teams on top. We all jostle for space on an area no bigger than a bathroom shared by a metal cross marking the true summit which I quickly clipped into as I enjoying the spectacular views. We spent 20 minutes on the top as all teams discussed the best route down; either the opposite summit ridge with belay points or the way we came up with continued teams still ascending. The concern of course with the route we came was the narrow ridge barely held one team therefore how would it be try to position two teams and potential entanglement of ropes? In the end it was decided among the three international teams the best idea was to go back the way we came since we knew the route. As we were the first up of all parties still on top, our position put us last to leave. As we slowly descended it required even more care because now you were faced directly toward the vertical drop off and the slippery rock. The concentration was intense but at last we reached the saddle where we took our earlier break and it was exhilarating to be past this section which required an extraordinary level of concentration, skill, and determination but in the end gave me an immense sense of satisfaction.
From this point, the route became extremely sloppy as the afternoon sun softens the slopes of the already soft snow to become even more unstable. Trekking down in deep sloppy snow is the worst part for me about mountaineering as my feet are not fit for these conditions but what can one do but trudge forward to the hut? As we approached that same spot we had difficulty early in the morning, my concerns valid as other teams went everywhere across the glacier trying to avoid the hidden dangers but what it did was take us farther off the path through deeper crevasses before gaining access to the rocks on the other side. Once past the crevasse field, the snow around the large rocks was so soft you would literally sink past your waist into the rocks underneath. Happy to get to a point where the rocks appeared continuous to the hut below, I stopped and put on the running shoes I carried to prevent future damage to my feet from the wet boots I was wearing but this almost turned out to be a fatal mistake as I should have stayed on route and dangers in the most simplest areas as we experienced earlier in the night. As I continued to climb down I got to a point I had to get back on the snow and not wanting to change back into my wet, sloppy boots, I stayed on a route leading me higher and as I approached a smooth slab with a slight trickle of water over the face, I expected it to be extremely slippery and took my time to prevent any fall but to no luck. As I started sliding down the slab, I sensed there was something deadly slightly below I did everything I could stop myself with a self arrest on the rock and luckily with the expense of huge gouges on my lower legs which started bleeding profusely, I was able to stop. As it turned out my senses were right and I was only 20 feet from a 40 foot cliff that fell into jagged rocks and continued a step incline even further. As I tried to climb back off the slippery slab, I slipped again but didn't slide as before and finally gained the top I had no choice but to head back up from were I came and moved down in the snow. I put the wet boots back on to prevent my shoes from being soaked and my feet started to freeze but had no choice but to follow path until I made it to the continuous rocks I so desperately wanted in the first place.
Once back at the hut, I ordered a couple of beers as my climbing partner started dinner, I discovered the last train back to Tasch this night was 8pm only 2.5 hours away and we still needed to gather our gear, pay our bill, and hike the standard three hours to the train! I also discover the first train didn't leave until 8 am in the morning computed quickly if we missed the train tonight, we would be over three hours late picking up the girls from Geneva with no way of getting a hold of them. Life would be bad if that happened.
In a panic and if things went bad enough, the next series of events continued the chaos of making it back on time. First I had to wait in line for a team paying their bill, during the second pour of the beers I ordered the keg went dry and it took forever to get it replaced, and finally the credit card machine would not work and she could not use it. We have been climbing all night and we were approaching less than two hours to make the final train and still were not out onto the trail. We finally got everything settled slammed our beers and ran down onto the glacier below (me in my running shoes with blood everywhere) and crossed back to the trail heading upward to the train. As I mention my boots were waterlogged and crossing the glacier would be interesting but I decided if I had any chance to make it back on time I had no choice but to run across and without incident, I made it in record time. We reached the train stop with 40 minutes to spare and I believe a world record. We rode the train down, made our way to the car, paid our parking lot fee, and I was happy to climb one of the best mountains my life and to be passed this series of events. Maybe someday I'll visit Switzerland again but to me, I was glad to visit this is a country, but felt it didn’t have the same feeling toward me at least for this go around.
As we left Tasch, I felt a deep satisfaction of climbing Dufourspitze due to its elevation, exposure, and must do status for world climbers. It felt good to be back in the car knowing we have now summited four peaks in four new countries of the world over the past week of tough climbing. Driving on the highway toward Geneva I felt the excitement of the night with our next stop to add the girls to the adventure and continued to voice my happiness to have checked the schedule when I did. As the heavy rain began to hit the windshield, I reflected back to the first night just a week ago in the car where I felt a bit of nervousness to even lay down an adventure so bold but now knowing that even if we weren't able to climb Mt Blanc I could with all honesty say this trip is an extreme success. We toyed with the idea of finding a cheap hotel to get the rest but because I started having trouble staying awake and our best bet was to find a rest stop on the side of the highway to get some shut eye. We found one on the outskirts of a Sion, Switzerland and I reclined the seats while enjoying the last beer and wine from our grocery trip and this accelerated my bodies to deep sleep. Before I knew it the alarm sounded at 5 am it was time to get moving. The sky was gray with rain still falling as I drove westward on the Autoroute du Rhone before turning northward around Lake Geneva. We stopped for coffee and a shower at a truck stop but it was far to busy for us to wait so we decided to move on to another a bit down the road. As we approached Geneva, our timing was perfect as we pulled in the parking lot and turned off the car the exact time the gals were to be arriving. We got out of our smelly car and went inside the airport.
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After introductions with a couple the girls met on the plane and also in New York, we piled in the car and made her way from the Geneva airport through the downtown to connect with the highway leading to Chamonix. The girls were instantly impressed with the area and seemed happy to be in another country. We stopped once across the border in France to grab breakfast at a small public market in the town square and we knew we were in France. We bought fresh bread and walked around before finding a café and ordering Café du Nior. We continued on and drove in to Chamonix and it was apparent the weather had turned for the worse and we made our way to the climbing information building in downtown surrounded by restaurants and retails shops. Stepping in just before they closed for the day, we were promptly told about the severe weather included 100 mph summit winds causing all guides to bring their teams off the mountain and unlikelihood of availably at the high huts was required reservations in advance. We could always take a chance though we would need to take a tram up to the Gouter Hut to see if there are any beds available. We were at desperate moment as our hopes to climb Mt Blanc on this trip was quickly evaporating.
Chamonix is a touristy town with lots of restaurants and we could clearly see other climbers who had bailed their attempts on this day with their gear sitting next to them. My climbing buddy found another guide and discussed the conditions on the mountain including the next few days and the finalized our decision. I knew however deep down inside I was satisfied with our achievement and enjoyed the phenomenal weather through the week and the mountain we still would need to come back to was the one the easiest to travel to and would become the start or end of a future trip that could include Spain and Portugal. The decision made we needed to move our minds to the next part of the trip which was the exploration of the European countryside including a backpack trip through Italy.
It was talked about heading out that night but the last thing I wanted to do is drive again being and I suggested we find a hotel in a surrounding town and enjoy a great dinner celebrating our trip. We made her way back out of town to Les Houches and found any old B&B hotel that was exactly what we needed to. It was in the early afternoon and after dropping off our gear I went down to a local pub around the corner to watch the Tour de France which was scheduled to be in the area in the next coming days. My body felt the beer effect’s faster than usually and as I sat next to the open window with the cool rain heavily falling in the street. In the early evening as it continued to rain in a downpour, we decided to head back to town for dinner pizza was on my mind. After dropping the group close to the downtown square, I parked the car a few blocks away and made my way back getting soaked to the bone including the slippers I just bought since my running shoes where thrashed After dinner, we went back to hotel for a much needed nights rest.
The next morning we woke up too terrible weather confirming our decision and decided to head into town for a coffee at a café. After a second cup of coffee and fresh croissants, we made our way back to the B&B to pack our gear as the girls were eating breakfast in as dinning hall. We checked out and started our drive back across the Swiss Alps via Zürich, southwestern Germany, and finally to Vienna. We stopped at a historic castle in Sion and hiked up to see the sights. The Château de Tourbillon is a castle in Sion in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. It is situated on a hill and faces the Basilique de Valère, located on the opposite hill. The castle is currently in a state of ruins following a fire in 1788.
As we passed through the area the interested in sites from inside a car quickly faded, the trip through the small towns went much slower than expected and by the time that we were in Germany toward the end of the day, everyone was ready to get out of the car. We looked for a hotel we've found a cute, all white Bed & Breakfast and after 15 minutes of negotiation, brought our things to the room, took showers and heading out into the small town for looking for great Italian dinner. The morning brought a bit of convenience which allowed me to watch CNN and update my notes from the trip which I was grateful to have. I will soon find my balance of the mountains and technology are something that I look for and this would also be a take away from this trip. We went into the dining area for huge breakfast and outstanding service by our elderly host. Everything around was white and I don't think I saw one speck of dirt and she and her late husband had rebuilt this house and she was hoping to sell to get from under the debt and move back to San Francisco where when has spent some time earlier in her life. As we left the hotel, it didn't take long to realize we already still sick of riding in the car and as we traveled through Munich, the numerous detours did not help and everyone was pushing for a change including myself who had driven the entire time. It was mentioned at some point in the day that we should just push on through as long as it took to Vienna and drop the car off and start our trip to Italy on a midnight train. Either way we still needed to get to Vienna and still had a long way to go but we did make it as the night came and we dropped off the car and proceeded to hike around with our heavy climbing gear now in a separate bag from our packs. Like our trip in the mountains, the gals were given the responsibility of planning everything from the time we were done climbing was they also kept everything versatile and unplanned. As we found time and time again is good to keep things open but it usually comes out of price.
In hindsight, the long trip really started with the preplanning of where we are flying into six month ago. The jumping off point was to be Venice but in the translation of booking tickets it became Vienna which was farther west than it needed to be but we decided it was probably a good turn of fate but also thought giving the girls a chance to see the country and saving the $250 drop off fee would be the right choice. In addition, the cost of the trains in Europe are perceived to be the cheapest way to travel around Europe, but this is a myth if you are traveling frequently and any savings we thought we would get was quickly exceeded with the trip cost from the Airport to Vienna and then onto Venice. Once in the Vienna train station, we had seven hours before the train left at 6 am so we hunkered down to find a place to rest in seats designed to keep you awake assigned form he wandering crowd of a train station in the middle of the night.
After another nine hours of travel, we stepped out of the train station to a warm afternoon day into the scene of hustling Venice and world-famous canals; it was great to finally be here. The city historically was an independent nation and the city stretches across 118 small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy between the mouths of the Po (south) and the Piave (north) Rivers. The sinking of Venice is caused by buildings of being constructed on closely spaced wood piles, which were imported from the mainland. The piles penetrate a softer layer of sand and mud until they reach the much harder layer of compressed clay. Wood for piles was cut in the most western part of today's Slovenia, resulting in the barren land in a region today called Kras, and in two regions of Croatia, Lika and Gorski kotar. Most of these piles are still intact after centuries of submersion. The foundations rest on the piles, and buildings of brick or stone sit above these footings. The buildings are often threatened by flood tides pushing in from the Adriatic between autumn and early spring. Six hundred years ago, Venetians protected themselves from land-based attacks by diverting all the major rivers flowing into the lagoon and thus preventing sediment from filling the area around the city. This created an ever-deeper lagoon environment. During the 20th century, when many wells were sunk into the lagoon to draw water for local industry, Venice began to subside and it was realized that extraction of the aquifer was the cause. This sinking process has slowed markedly since artesian wells were banned in the 1960s. However, the city is still threatened by more frequent low-level floods that creep to a height of several centimeters over its quays, regularly following certain tides. In many old houses the former staircases used by people to unload goods are now flooded, rendering the former ground floor uninhabitable. Many Venetians have resorted to moving up to the upper floors and continuing with their lives. Some recent studies have suggested that the city is no longer sinking, but this is not yet certain and in May 2003 the Italian Prime Minister the MOSE project an experimental model for evaluating the performance of inflatable gates. This engineering work is due to be completed by 2011. Some experts say that the best way to protect Venice is to physically lift the City to a greater height above sea level, by pumping water into the soil underneath the city. This way, some hope, it could rise above sea levels, protecting it for hundreds of years, and eventually the MOSE project may not be necessary
Unfortunately we do not have a hotel and this became our search as we traveled through the busy streets again carrying a heavy bag. After a recommendation of a nearby hostel, we waited for the manager nearly an hour before deciding to move on. Reflections of my trip to London in my freshman year in college came flooding back though we finally found a double room could share for €50 per couple included breakfast. We left took showers and spent the rest of the evening exploring Venice. We found a small pub owned by a memorable German who made our drinks everlasting including a new twist for an amaretto and orange. We walked through the narrow streets and drank a bottle of cheap wine with her feet hanging off into the channel.
I woke to a church bell from outside the open window which lasted over five minutes and could already feel the warmth from the upcoming day. I walked the city looking for a cup of coffee prior to breakfast and to watch the city wake up and the culture of the people. We all got showers and were off for the day without our packs as the hotel manager allowed us to leave our packs at the front desk so we could find a place to ship our climbing gear back home. After talking with a DHL rep coming up river, the nearest office was near the Piazza San Marco a place where we were already planning to take a boat and explore. Once the 28 kg package was on its way back to the states,
The Piazza Marco Square was nostalgic as I sensed history all around me including the modern stage which but I'm sure hundreds of famous artists have played in all walks of life such as jazz and classical. It was a beautiful setting and I wished I knew more history of the area. As we started our walked back to the hotel we slowly went through the city. I was amazed in the sheer size of Venice and the how well retail shops were tucked away in these very small quarters. It took over three hours to walk back to the hotel where we would catch her neck strain out of Florence. We stopped inside to grab our gear and said our goodbyes and we were off again.
The train ride to Florence lasted four hours and when we arrived, in were dark and again time to look for a hotel. As luck would have it there was a young gal who took us by the hand back across the street to a hotel floor she managed. What amazed me in Florence was the number of hotels with small neon signs dominant the area in old buildings which reminded me of what the 30s may be like in New York City. We negotiated the room price down to €90 and took showers before heading out for a quick drink before bed even though it was already 11 p.m. Anther point that struck me was the number of young teenagers enjoying the nightlife of the town which will be my lasting impressions of such a historic town as Florence. We settled at a small pub on the square and ordered a round of drinks with everyone around us was talking as we sat there idly staring at others. We made our way back to the hotel and I was happy to sleep with my feet hinting at what I had just put hem through in the past week.
The next morning, I went into the dining area with the British morning news and enjoyed many cups of coffee while everyone was sleeping. I exchanged stories with a Brazilian father and son that were touring Europe for the entire summer reminiscing on the times he lived in Europe. The best part about traveling abroad is the people and this was a rare occasion on this trip I had time to do exactly that. Today is going to be the only day that we spent two consecutive nights at the same place as we booked another room and left for a tour of Florence with the main destination as the Uffizi, is one of the oldest and most famous art museums of the Western world. We could clearly see that it was it was extremely popular area and we waited in line as the gals ran to get tickets from our reservation we made from the hotel. They were gone for quite some time and once a group was let in, the attendants closed the chains accidentally leaving me on the inside. As I stood there, I became a immediately Uffizi tour guide as everyone over the next 15 minutes continued to walk up to me and ask for information regarding tickets, times, and more. I answered as best I could and pointed them in the right direction but the best was when an American couple came up to me and asked if I spoke American which I chuckled and said yes. I decided my life as a tour guide was coming to an end and moved underneath the chains and become just another tourist.
The museum was remarkable as collections of timeless art and sculptures of souls that walked the world before our time continued forever through the long hallways and separate rooms. I reflected in the modern times where we are at today as a civilization as compared to the world before and my mind pondered if we as a modern society are truly living or just rushing around picking off to actions of our lives, but I believe world does change and we are still no different than these people who lived many years before and we must adapt and find our place in history no matter what it might be. I am grateful I know I have found my purpose and know this trip in hindsight would provide many valuable lessons on how to travel for all future trips. I must admit my goal on the trip through Italy was to relax bask in the success of our climbs but unfortunately that's the last thing I was able to do as we seem to always be trying to find the next thing, getting money always seemed to be a hassle, and I was without technology to help us through the issues. It seems like weeks ago when we were climbing which I would've been satisfied heading to Venice for three nights and enjoying the sights, food, and wine. Back to the museum, we turned a corner say the original Adam and Eve and spent time admiring this original portrait knowing we were somewhere special.
After dinner on the river, we needed to do laundry and decided to do that while having a drink at a back alley pub. We found the perfect little Irish pub and we sat down which turn out to be a great night. When talking with the guy from Pennsylvania who is their traveling alone whom added a spark to our conversation. We talked through the night until we closed the bar with drinks all around and finally satisfied of the good night out. Greats party in the back alley pub in the city of Florence Italy.
In the morning, our next destination to the original destination of TOWN was changed to the small city of Viareggio on the coast of Italy. We took a bus to the town lasting a little over an hour and we stepped off into an old beach town again from the 1930s on the coast of Italy. It included boardwalk shops on the Mediterranean and architecture that still remained intact. We search for a hotel and found one overlooking the main section of town with a great view of the beach and the entire town. We grabbed lunch and I decided today would be a great day to have time to ourselves as a couple and we walked all the way up the beach to the north. We made it back to the hotel a bit before 6 pm and prepared to go to dinner on the boardwalk surrounded by the nightlife of the town. It was a classy town with culture everywhere. I truly enjoyed spending a day here on the strip.
It was Friday and the day before leaving back for home and we're grabbed a train to Rome to spend an entire day and night in the city. As we traveled down the four-hour trip, I was glad to be leaving the next day. I knew that this trip looking back would be good but can say there are many lessons learned. Once we stepped off the train a bit after 3 p.m. we found a restaurant on the bustling streets of this large city. The contrast of the weeks in backcountry compared to the city of Rome gave an immediate jolt to the pace. Once finished, we walked down to the Coliseum and I could feel the countless souls alive there were lost including the greed of the emperors that would sit in their high seats and watch the torture below.
The Roman Coliseum, originally the Flavian Amphitheatre is the largest ever built in the Roman Empire and one of the greatest works of Roman engineering. Occupying a site just east of the Roman Forum, its construction started between 70 and 72 AD under the emperor Vespasian and was completed in 80 AD under Titus. Capable of seating 50,000 spectators, the Colosseum was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles, mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. The building ceased to be used for entertainment in the early medieval era and was later reused for religious purposes as it is today with the Roman Catholic Church, as each Good Friday the Pope leads a torchlit "Way of the Cross" procession around the various levels of the amphitheatre.
It has been estimated that about 500,000 people and over a million wild animals died in the Colosseum games and although in the 21st century it stays partially ruined due to damage caused by devastating earthquakes and stone-robbers, the Colosseum is an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome and its breakthrough achievements in earthquake engineering.
After we toured the Colosseum, we sat for quite some time on the high wall surrounding the area and I drank a tall beer in the fading evening sun. We slowly made our way back through the city; we ate a light dinner at an outdoor restaurant in the heart of the city. We caught the train to the airport where we planned to stay for the night and as it turned out, provided decent accommodations with private bathrooms. I slept pretty well all things considered and morning came quickly. We headed toward the gate for the flight back to Newark.
As I flew out of Italy I reflected on all the things I experienced on the trip including the challenge I've put myself through and walk away with many lessons learned;
1. Insuring you have plenty of cash on hand and a easy way to get more if needed
2. Embracing the modern technology age to stay up with the world, search for history about the area, get travel information, and updating my blog.
3. Balance between planning, preparation, and adventure because every day was a search for something and we spent hours traveling and I never felt I got into the groove of culture. Also, as we experienced in Switzerland, knowledge is critical to our safety as I continue traveling throughout the world in countries that do not just give you a ticket.
4. The pace of the adventure is also a balance experiencing the culture and seeing a lot as we were constantly on the move only stayed one night in the same place. This slower pace will extend the group and adds to the conversation as we saw on our night in Florence.
With my quest to climb as many of the highest peaks, as may never be back to Rome but in a weird way, I'm grateful we did not summit Mt Blanc because either Rome or Paris can be a jumping off point for another trip including Portugal and Spain. As I continue to become an efficient, world traveler and learn from my mistakes, I will always have a chance to rebound and see the world in the way I want to see it.
As we arrived in the Newark with a 6 hour wait I never thought I would feel at home in New York but with the transparent conversations, the world has a lot to say about the American culture but I can tell you in many ways we are more patient than the Europeans and hold all everyone at the same standard. As we waiting, our flight was overbooked and we gave up our seats for the next flight only two hours away in exchange for a two $300 tickets, $25 food (beer) voucher in the airport, and an upgrade to first class. I jumped at the deal as we traveled westward across America who was preparing for bed, we were pampered in first class with hot towels, unlimited drinks, and a full course veal dinner satisfied with the end of this adventure…