I woke up around 5am, made a quick get-away like a bandit in the night and headed back west on Highway 19 toward Oberalp Pass. It didn’t take long for my body to drift back into drowsiness as I sat in my filth from the previous day of hard climbing. Needing an awakening, I found the perfect spot at the first high pass I came to. Flowing under the road, a raging icy creek provide a passage to it’s treasure and as we organized the car and made fresh coffee, I washed my clothes using a netting bag and the power of the
As we entered the town of Tasch we decided to grab breakfast at a small café so we parked the car and discovered a potential establishment off a back alley. We ordered breakfast which included the usual plate of cold cuts, cheese, and bread that we devoured quickly. Putting ourselves on a tight budget on this portion of the trip in order to leave more once the gals arrived, we expected to pay just a few bucks for breakfast and when the waitress came back out and ask if we wanted more, we shrugged and said “what the heck” knowing we would need the energy for the day. She brought out another plate of cold cuts, cheese, and bread and we barely finished that off. She brought the bill and to my surprise each plate of food was $19 US for a total of over $44 including coffee which did not set us the a great mood since the supplies and alcohol we had been eating the past few days cost us that, but no big deal as we are in Switzerland but any hopes of our moods was about to quickly change and we started to feel this country was not on our side on this day.
I grabbed a hundred Swiss Francs for hut spending and we jumped in the car planning to head over to the train station to inquire about tickets but in a conversation in Germany, one of the gals whom lived in Zermatt only a few miles up the road stated it was the jumping off point to climb Dufourspitze. Think the train of course stops there; we drove the small road into the town and as we approached the gate we were stopped by some border police and asked what we were doing. We stated our intentions and he quickly told us that it was against the law to drive in this town if you were not a resident or had authorization. He showed us a snapshot of a picture that included the words “Only authorized personnel only” which of course was in German with a very small caption at the bottom barely readable in English restating the warning. We apologized but that wasn't enough for this guy and he promptly wrote us a ticket and demanded a hundred Swiss francs as the penalty for not reading the small inscription and driving into town. I sat there and stared back and he quickly said either pay it or get the car impounded. Our time in Switzerland was quickly turning for the worse and the new hundred Swiss francs I just got from the bank was gone. With breakfast costing 44 Swiss franc and now this, our moods became extremely quiet.
As we drove back into Tasch there was nothing else we could do but shrug off our problem and set our sights toward the mountain we came to climb. I would be fooling myself if I thought this would be the last life lesson I will encounter on these trips and as I travel the globe. Switzerland is very modern and I can only imagine what this could be like as we travel to countries like Sudan where the regulations could be even more severe. As a write this blog just a few days ago there was a group of hikers that stepped over to the Iranian border and are now captives and I think of the planning I must do to ensure I understand the culture and the rules. Life lessons are just that and only turn into ingnorance if you repeat them…
We made our way into the train station to buy tickets for yet another luxury we were unfamilar with in America as getting to the starting point of the climb is half the climb. The train continued through a series of stops as ascended into the mountains to our final
We woke up around 1:45 a.m. and like other trips prepared breakfast with coffee, oatmeal, and fruit. As the others scheduled breakfast in the hut, we still felt in heaven being able to cook on a table inside while we prepared our gear. We were the last to leave the hut around 2:45 a.m. and
A few times in my career of mountaineering I’ve felt the void of an open crevasse but on this climb, I quickly found two of these deadly monsters through the unusual soft snow in the middle of the warm night. After roping up, I wanted to stay in front of a large party right behind us and as I took my first step onto the
Being the forth climb in a row, my body was prepared for endurance above my usual fitness level and this made the climb more enjoyable. As we moved through the night, the time pass quickly and before I knew it the sun was slowly rising above the eastern h
The steep ridge with exposure of well over 1500 feet to the glacier below switched from ice to a mixture of rock and ice requiring delicate steps with our crampons. Without fixed points on this section of the route, we used the rocks of the ridge as a self belay in case one of us fell. As we moved up the ridge the climbing got tougher, the exposure deeper, and any worries or thoughts other than the task at hand were throw off and I was testing my skills as a mountaineer but like any challenges, when you put yourself out there it's simply one step at a time ensuring that you have three points secure. At one moment, the summit appear directly ahead with climbers hanging out on top and nothing visible in the background, but as we approached this point as I found on Grossglockner, the route continued down to a small saddle and then back up into 5th class of rock and ice climbing.
As we approached the summit, I realize what it's like climbing throughout the world with international teams on top. We all jostle for space on an area no bigger than a bathroom shared by a metal cross marking the true summit which I quickly clipped into as I enjoying the spectacular
From this point, the route became extremely sloppy as the afternoon sun softens the slopes of the already soft snow to become even more unstable. Trekking down in deep sloppy snow is the worst part for me
Once back at the hut, I ordered a couple of beers as my climbing partner started dinner, I discovered the last train back to Tasch this night was 8pm only 2.5 hours away and we still needed to gather our gear, pay our bill, and hike the standard three hours to the train! I also discover the first train didn't leave until 8 am in the morning computed quickly if we missed the train tonight, we
In a panic and if things went bad enough, the next series of events continued the chaos of making it back on time. First I had to wait in line for a team paying their bill, during the second pour of the beers I ordered the keg went dry and it took forever to get it replaced, and finally the credit card machine would not work and she could not use it. We have been climbing all night and we were approaching less than two hours to make the final train and still were not out onto the trail. We finally got everything settled slammed our beers and ran down onto the glacier below (me in my running shoes with blood everywhere) and crossed back to the trail heading upward to the train. As I mention my boots were waterlogged and crossing the glacier would be interesting but I decided if I had any chance to make it back on time I had no choice but to run across and without incident, I made it in record time. We reached the train stop with 40 minutes to spare and I
As we left Tasch, I felt a deep satisfaction of climbing Dufourspitze due to its elevation, exposure, and must do status for world climbers. It felt good to be back in the car knowing we have now summited four peaks in four new countries of the world over the past week of tough climbing. Driving on the highway toward Geneva I felt the excitement of the night with our next stop to add the girls to the adventure and continued to voice my happiness to have checked the schedule when I did. As the heavy rain began to hit the windshield, I reflected back to the first night just a week ago in the car where I felt a bit of nervousness to even lay down an adventure so bold but now knowing that even if we weren't able to climb Mt Blanc I could with all honesty say this trip is an extreme success. We toyed with the idea of finding a cheap hotel to get the rest but because I started having trouble staying awake and our best bet was to find a rest stop on the side of the highway to get some shut eye. We found one on the outskirts of a Sion, Switzerland and I reclined the seats while enjoying the last beer and wine from our grocery trip and this accelerated my bodies to deep sleep. Before I knew it the alarm sounded at 5 am it was time to get moving. The sky was gray with rain still falling as I drove westward on the Autoroute du Rhone before turning northward around Lake Geneva. We stopped for coffee and a shower at a truck stop but it was far to busy for us to wait so we decided to move on to another a bit down the road. As we approached Geneva, our timing was perfect as we pulled in the parking lot and turned off the car the exact time the gals were to be arriving. We got out of our smelly car and went inside the airport.
----
After introductions with a couple the girls met on the plane and also in New York, we piled in the car and made her way from the Geneva airport through the downtown to connect with the highway leading to Chamonix. The girls were instantly impressed with the area and seemed happy to be in
Chamonix is a touristy town with lots of restaurants and we could clearly see other climbers who had bailed their attempts on this day with their gear sitting next to them. My climbing buddy found another guide and discussed the conditions on the mountain including the next few days and the finalized our decision. I knew however deep down inside I was satisfied with our achievement and enjoyed the phenomenal weather through the week and the mountain we still would need to come back to was the one the easiest to travel to and would become the start or end of a future trip that could include Spain and Portugal. The decision made we needed to move our minds to the next part of the trip which was the exploration of the European
It was talked about heading out that night but the last thing I wanted to do is drive again being and I suggested we find a hotel in a surrounding town and enjoy a great dinner celebrating our trip. We made her way back out of town to Les Houches and found any old B&B hotel that was exactly what we needed to. It was in the early afternoon and after dropping off our gear I went down to a local pub around the corner to watch the Tour de France which was scheduled to be in the area
The next morning we woke up too terrible weather confirming our decision and decided to head into town for a coffee at a café. After a second cup of coffee and fresh croissants, we made our way back to the B&B to pack our gear
As we passed through the area the interested in sites from inside a car quickly faded, the trip through the small towns went much slower than expected and by the time that we were in Germany toward the end of the day, everyone was ready to get out of the car. We looked for a hotel we've found a cute, all white Bed & Breakfast and after 15 minutes of negotiation, brought
In hindsight, the long trip really started with the preplanning of where we are flying into six month ago. The jumping off point was to be Venice but in the translation of booking tickets it became Vienna which was farther west than it needed to be but we decided it was probably a good turn of fate but also thought giving the girls a chance to see the country and saving the $250 drop off fee would be the right choice. In addition, the cost of the trains in Europe are perceived
After another nine hours of travel, we stepped out of the train station to a warm afternoon day into the scene of hustling Venice and world-famous canals; it was great to finally be here. The city historically was an independent nation and the city stretches across 118 small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy between the mouths of the Po (south) and the Piave (north) Rivers. The sinking of Venice is caused by buildings of being constructed on closely spaced wood piles, which were imported from the mainland. The piles penetrate a softer layer of sand
and mud until they reach the much harder layer of compressed clay. Wood for piles was cut in the most western part of today's Slovenia, resulting in the barren land in a region today called Kras, and in two regions of Croatia, Lika and Gorski kotar. Most of these piles are still intact after centuries of submersion. The foundations rest on the piles, and buildings of brick or stone sit above these footings. The buildings are often threatened by flood tides Unfortunately we do not have a hotel and this became our search as we traveled through the busy streets again carrying a heavy bag. After a recommendation of a nearby hostel, we waited for the manager nearly an hour before deciding to move on. Reflections of my trip to London in my freshman year in college came flooding back though we finally found a double room could share for €50 per couple included breakfast. We left took showers and spent the rest of the evening exploring Venice. We found a small pub owned by a memorable German who made our drinks everlasting including a new
I woke to a church bell from outside the open window which lasted over five minutes and could already feel the warmth from the upcoming day. I walked the city looking for a cup of coffee prior to breakfast and to watch the city wake up and the culture of the people. We all got showers and were off for the day without our packs as the hotel manager allowed us to leave our packs at the front desk so we could find a place to ship our climbing gear back home. After talking with a DHL
The Piazza Marco Square was nostalgic as I sensed history all around me including the modern stage which but I'm sure hundreds of famous artists have played in all walks of life such as jazz and classical. It was a beautiful setting and I wished I knew more history of the area.
The train ride to Florence lasted four hours and when we arrived, in were dark and again time to look for a hotel. As luck would have it there was a young gal who took us by the hand back across the street to a hotel floor she managed. What amazed me in Florence was the number of hotels with small neon signs dominant the area in old buildings which reminded me of what the 30s may be like in New York City. We negotiated the room price down to €90 and took showers before heading out for a quick drink before bed even though it
The next morning, I went into the dining area with the British morning news and enjoyed many cups of coffee while everyone
right direction but the best was when an American couple came up to me and asked if I spoke American which I chuckled and said yes. I decided my life as a tour guide was coming to an end and moved underneath the chains and become just another tourist.
The museum was remarkable as collections of timeless art and sculptures of souls that walked the world before our time continued forever through the long hallways and separate rooms. I reflected in the modern times where we are at today as a civilization as compared to the world before and my mind pondered if we as a modern society are truly living or just rushing around picking off to actions of our lives, but I believe world does change
and we are still no different than these people who lived many years before and we must adapt and find our place in history no matter what it might be. I am grateful I know I have found my purpose and know this trip in hindsight would provide many valuable lessons on how to travel for all future trips. I must admit my goal on the trip through Italy was to relax bask in the success of our climbs but unfortunately that's the last thing I was able to do as we seem to always be trying to find the next thing, getting money always seemed to be a hassle, and I was without technology to help us through the issues. It seems like weeks ago when we were climbing which I would've been satisfied heading to Venice for three nights and enjoying the sights, food, and wine. Back to the museum, we turned a corner say the original Adam and Eve and spent time admiring this original portrait knowing we were somewhere special.After dinner on the river, we needed to do laundry and decided to do that while having a drink at a back alley pub. We found the perfect little Irish pub and we
In the morning, our next destination to the original destination of TOWN was changed to the small city of Viareggio on the coast of Italy. We took a
It was Friday and the day before leaving back for home and we're grabbed a train to Rome to spend an entire day and night in the city. As we traveled down the four-hour trip, I was glad to be leaving the next day. I knew that this trip looking back would be good but can say there are many lessons learned. Once we stepped off the train a bit after 3 p.m. we found a restaurant on the bustling streets of this large city. The contrast of the weeks in backcountry compared to the city of Rome gave an immediate jolt to the pace. Once finished, we walked down to the Coliseum and I could feel the countless souls alive there were lost including the greed of the emperors that would sit in their high seats and watch the torture below.
The Roman Coliseum, originally the Flavian Amphitheatre is the largest ever built in the Roman Empire and one of the greatest works of Roman engineering. Occupying a site just east of the Roman Forum, its construction started between 70 and 72 AD under the emperor Vespasian and was completed in 80 AD under Titus. Capable of seating 50,000 spectators, the Colosseum was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles, mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions,
It has been estimated that about 500,000 people and over a million wild animals died in the Colosseum games and although in the 21st century it stays partially ruined due to damage caused by devastating earthquakes and stone-robbers, the Colosseum is an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome and its breakthrough achievements in earthquake engineering.
After we toured the Colosseum, we sat for quite some time on the high wall surrounding the area and I drank a tall beer in the fading evening sun. We slowly made our way
1. Insuring you have plenty of cash on hand and a easy way to get more if needed
2. Embracing the modern technology age to stay up with the world, search for history about the area, get travel information, and updating my blog.
3. Balance between planning, preparation, and adventure because every day was a search for something and we spent hours traveling and I never felt I got into the groove of culture. Also, as we experienced in Switzerland, knowledge is critical to our safety as I continue traveling throughout the world in countries that do not just give you a ticket.
4. The pace of the adventure is also a balance experiencing the culture and seeing a lot as we were constantly on the move only stayed one night in the same place. This slower pace will extend the group and adds to the conversation as we saw on our night in Florence.
With my quest to climb as many of the highest peaks, as may never be back to Rome but in a weird way, I'm grateful we did not summit Mt Blanc because either Rome or Paris can be a jumping off point for another trip including Portugal and Spain. As I continue to become an efficient, world traveler and learn from my mistakes, I will always have a chance to rebound and see the world in the way I want to see it.
As we arrived in the Newark with a 6 hour wait I never thought I would feel at home in New York but with the transparent conversations, the world has a lot to say about the American culture but I can tell you in many ways we are more patient than the Europeans and hold all everyone at the same standard. As we waiting, our flight was overbooked and we gave up our seats for the next flight only two hours away in exchange for a two $300 tickets, $25 food (beer) voucher in the airport, and an upgrade to first class. I jumped at the deal as we traveled westward across America who was preparing for bed, we were pampered in first class with hot towels, unlimited drinks, and a full course veal dinner satisfied with the end of this adventure…