America, at a height of 20,320 feet or 6,194 meters above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park. Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913.Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest.
The West Buttress route was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. A steady and gradual ascent over a period of days is undertaken with emphasis on proper acclimatization for team members. It is not considered a highly technical climb, because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing on the route. Rather, it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and 
familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills. In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000' (35 - 45 + degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender. An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley is truly a major expedition and unforgettable experience...The Alaska Range arcs in a six hundred mile crescent across south central Alaska. At 20,320', Mount McKinley is the highest point in North America, and the crown jewel of
this magnificent range. Massive ice flows, some over forty miles in length, the Ruth, Tokositna and Kahiltna glaciers, spill out of the Range southward. The thirty-nine-mile long Muldrow Glacier is the largest and longest on Denali's northern aspect. By way of comparison, the largest glacier in the continental United States is the four and a half 
mile Emmons, on 14,410' Mount Rainier in Washington State. The Alaska Range and Mount McKinley massif provides a modern day glimpse of Pleistocene age glaciations.The Alaska Range is a result of plate tectonics, specifically an area known as the Denali Fault System. It is the largest crustal break occurring in North America. On the northern side of the park a continental plate is subducting deep into the earth, thus causing the southern plate to be pushed upward. This results in a vertical rise on
Denali's northern slope, called the Wickersham Wall, of 18,000' above the tundra. Nowhere else on earth does such a dramatic rise occur.Most climbers attempting the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley approach it from the air via a spectacular scenic flight of approximately 45 minutes, from Talkeetna to Base Camp. Viewing Denali and its environs
from the air is the best way to appreciate the grandeur of Alaska, and put the vast region in perspective. Leaving Talkeetna the flight traverses above seemingly endless taiga, the Alaskan forest, of spruce, willow, birch and aspen. Hundreds of lakes and tiny ponds dot the landscape. Moose, bear, trumpeter swans and beaver are sometimes viewed. The riot of green in late spring and early summer is shocking to returning climbers, possibly having spent weeks in the drab black and white mountain environment. Conversely, the northern slope of 
Denali (indeed 50% of the entire state) is mainly tundra. Climbing parties may come into contact with grizzly bear, caribou, fox and wolf, to name a few, while crossing tundra on their approach to the mountain. Even the upper regions of Denali are not totally devoid of life. Ravens cruise the currents and soar with the updrafts, and are common visitors to the 17,000' high camp and even the summit. Tiny sparrows follow parties on the lower glaciers and scavenge the tiniest morsels. These birds often fall prey to the larger, more aggressive 
ravens.A land bridge connected North America and Asia approximately 40,000 years ago. Native peoples, the Eskimo, Aleut, Athabaskan and Inuit settled in the "Great Land" and lived undisturbed for centuries. The native words "Denali" (The High One) and "Alaska" (the Great Land) are in popular use today. The first European to sight Alaska was Vitus Bering, a Dane employed by the Czar of Russia, during his voyage of discovery along the coast in 1741. However, he did not sight Mount McKinley. Russian fur traders dominated Alaska throughout the eighteenth century, and there were English and Spanish settlements too, on the southern coast. U.S. Secretary of State, William Seward, purchased
Alaska from Russia for $7,200,000 in 1867. The book "Alaska" by James A. Michener offers a detailed description of Alaska's geology, history and development.The first climbing attempt on Denali was made in 1903, but the summit was elusive and success didn't come until ten years later. Judge James Wickersham of Fairbanks led the first attempt, choosing to climb the mountain's difficult northern slope. The group of four men and two mules reached 8,000'.
Also in 1903 the famous polar explorer, Dr. Frederick Cook, attempted the mountain by approximately the same route. Their party made it a little higher in elevation,
to 11,000'. Cook returned in l906 and tried to breach Mount McKinley by way of a southern approach, but once again met with failure. Determined, Cook returned a second time the same year, this time in September, and after being gone a mere 12 days from Cook Inlet, returned claiming to have reached the mountain's summit. Cook’s claim was widely disputed, and numerous attempts were mounted in subsequent years for the purpose not only of reaching the summit, but also to discredit him.The famous Sourdough expedition of 1909, comprised of rugged miners from Fairbanks, attempted to follow the Muldrow Glacier. They successfully reached the
North peak, unfortunately not realizing it is 850' lower than South peak. The Sourdoughs planted a 14-foot spruce pole with attached American flag, in hopes of it being visible from Fairbanks; it was not, and doubts were cast concerning their claim as well.Dr. Cook's infamous 'summit photographs' were undisputedly proven to be fake in 1910. He had actually been miles from the mountain, at an elevation of approximately 8,000'. Mount McKinley's
summit was still unattained. Two attempts in 1912 were also unsuccessful. One of these, led by Belmore Brown, made it to within several hundred vertical feet of the true summit.Finally, in 1913, a party led by the Episcopal Archdeacon of the Yukon, Hudson Stuck, reached the summit via Muldrow Glacier. The flag left by the Sourdoughs four years earlier w
as still visible on the North Peak; they were vindicated!The early explorers named numerous features and locations on the mountain after themselves. Modern climbers are familiar with many of these place-names. In l951 Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, now the most popular line on Mount McKinley. Using his accumulated aerial photography and personal familiarity with the slopes of Mount McKinley, Washburn produced the definitive topographical map of the region.
Fresh from Kilimanjaro, my rejuvenated thoughts of professional guiding works me back to my days climbing Mt Rainer for the Climb for Clean Air with RMI or Rainier Mountain Inc. I spent time talking to Lou Whittaker and Joe Horiskey during a training session...Started day ONE of my next adventure with a early morning flight from Pasadena via Seattle to Anchorage
with the partnership with my two grey Black Diamond duffels holding my 120 pounds of gear. Meet the team at the Anchorage International Airport baggage claim and made way to Talkeetna via 
chartered van.Started day TWO with a large breakfast of eggs, bacon, and hash browns at the Roadhouse Restaurant discussing the expedition. Spent the rest of the day at the K2 hanger preparing gear for the tomorrows
hopeful flight to base camp and completion of the required national park orientation.Work up on day THREE to a clear morning ready for the flight to Kahiltna Base Camp at 7,300' on the south east fork of Kahiltna Glacier. Sat in the jump seat of Twin Otter on the 40 minute flight to McKinley base. After sorting gear, started from base camp
in the clear morning by decending the "Heartbreak Hill" and the 20 miles and 13,000' up to the summit of Denali, South Peak, 20,320' hidden in the high clouds to the north. Traveled the first five miles to camp II at 7,800' under the heat of the day making camp for the first time of the trip on low angle glacier.Woke up on day FOUR and broke camp for the days journey to camp II at 9,800' under Ski Hill. Better prepared for the heat, we finished the days push in a white out and driving
wind conditions. Made camp and ate dinner in the tents.Woke up day FIVE to clear skies for the push up Ski Hill toward Kahiltna Pass before turning east up beyond the pass through a narrow glacial valley to the first major milestone of Camp III at 11,500' below Motorcycle Hill. Enjoyed being on the mountain
with world class Ed Viesters the greater part of the day. Made camp and put in camp with plans to remain the coming days finally off the Kahiltna Glacier.Day SIX was a rest day at Camp Camp III including building walls, refining the cook tent platform, and general relaxation with Motorcycle Hill above.
Day SEVEN continued acclimatization day with weather less than perfect. Hopeful to cache gear below high camp.
Day EIGHT moved under perfect condition to the cache at 13,700' traversing the basin beneath the prow of the West Buttress passes around Windy Corner before climbing to the 14,000' Genet Basin. where Advance Base Camp is established. Windy Corner proved otherwise on this day.
Day NINE moved from Camp III to Camp IV, 14,400' Advanced Base Camp under great conditions. No camps available so put up temporary camp with hopes to grab vacate area after teams move to advanced based camp the next morning.Day TEN acclimatization day at Camp IV as teams did not move due to high winds above. Grabbed cache from 13,700' and walked over to the "Edge of the world" of 14k plateau
to glacier 5k feet below. Unfortunate rescue efforts above due to fatality of team coming down from summit.Day ELEVEN continued acclimatization day at Camp IV
Day TWELVE caching at 16,700' by ascending 1,100’ of snow slopes above to the fixed lines and the Headwall of 900’ feet of 50°
snow and ice to reach the crest of the West Buttress at 16,200' and the ridge crest is followed to high camp at 17,200'. Cached at off exposed ridge under Washburn’s Tower which merges into the main massif of Denali.Day THIRTEEN acclimatization day with hopes to move to Camp V at 17,200' the next day, however low p
ressure system on way bringing high summit of 70 miles per hour over next five days.Day FOURTEEN waiting storm with concern of week long delay at Camp IV High Camp. Made calls on Satillite phone to office due to new promotion but no luck. Will try another call next morning to decide if feasible to wait out storm.
Day FIFTEEN call but no luck. Push way back to base camp through white out conditions below Ski Hill and barely made cutoff for K2 call and flight off glacier this night. Grabbed beer and burger at hotel after refreshing shower.DAY SIXTEEN got caught up of journal under clear skies in Talkeetna as park services forecasted a even longer low pressure system through the entire week with dangerous summit winds. Caught ride to Anchorage International Airport and read eye flight back to Burbank .
DAY SEVENTEEN back at home getting ready to start my new careeer promotion and first full Californa summer of surfing, hiking, and concerts at the Hollywood Bowl.
On a concluding note, the team waiting for another entire week when at high camp,
four days later than orginal forecast before weather improved allowing team to move to camp above and summit attempt. Back at work, great news on title promotion and sheduled meeting with leadership in Seattle. Talk about LIFE BALANCE which was the theme starting my inaugural book in 2009. Life is great!
